Hollinger Corp. 
pH 8.5 



If you are interested in other 

uses of concrete and desire information 

as to the best way to use 

it, send your inquiries 

to the 



PORTLAND CEMENT ASSOCIATION 

1 1 1 West Washington Street 
Chicago 




Tft <*& 
T73 



CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS, 
MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 

No other material is so well suited to the construction of tanks, troughs, 
hog wallows, cisterns and similar structures as concrete. If a few simple 
rules are observed, success is assured, and this fact has led to the extensive 
use of concrete for such work. 

Concrete tanks, troughs and similar structures have many advantages 
over those built of other materials. They may easily be kept clean, and 
unlike those built of wood, do not require continual painting to keep them 
in condition fit for use. If a concrete trough or tank is left empty, it will 
not go to pieces in the sun and wind, as will wood construction. There 
are no hoops nor bands to tighten. Concrete will not rot, rust nor warp, 
and is always ready for use. Most of the necessary materials required 
to build concrete troughs, tanks and cisterns may be found on the farm 
or near by. 




Figure 1. Stock appreciate the cleanliness of the sanitary, concrete watering trough. 



Success in the use of concrete for building tanks, troughs and similar 
structures follows the observance of a few simple precautions. The soil 
where the structure is to rest must be firm so as to provide a good support. 
Sand and pebbles or broken stone must be clean and properly graded; 
suitable reinforcing must be used to prevent cracks due to temperature 
changes and from the pressure due to expansion if water in the tank should 
freeze, and after concreting has been finished the work must be protected 
against too rapid drying out. 

All tanks and troughs which are to hold liquids must be watertight, 
therefore a 1:2:3 concrete mixture is preferable; that is, 1 sack of Portland 



4 CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 

cement to 2 cubic feet of clean, coarse, well graded sand, to 3 cubic feet of 
well graded pebbles or broken stone. Sand should range in size from the 
smaller particles to those that will just pass a J^-inch mesh screen. Pebbles 
or broken stone should range in size from }/± to % or V/i inches, depending 
upon the thickness of the section in which the concrete is to be used. Gen- 
erally speaking, in thin sections the largest pebbles or particles of broken 
stone should never be larger than one-half the thickness of the concrete 
section in which they are to be used. 

After having selected clean, well graded materials and mixed them in 
correct proportions, enough water must be added to make a concrete of 
quaky or jelly-like consistency. When placed in the forms, this quaky 
mixture must be thoroughly spaded, both between and against form faces, 
to produce a dense, watertight mass with smooth surfaces. Tapping the 
forms while placing the concrete will help to produce a smooth surface and 
will also release air bubbles which may have been trapped in the concrete 
while mixing. 

If concrete is mixed and placed as above described, a 1:2:3 mixture will 
produce watertight construction without the use of any special water- 
proofing materials or treatment. 

When building concrete tanks or troughs, it is best to arrange to carry 
on the work from start to finish without stopping, so that there will be no 
construction seams between different days' concreting, which might later 
open enough to permit leakage. However, as some tanks are larger than 
can be built by home labor in one day, it is not always possible to arrange 
for continuous placing of concrete, so several methods of preventing leaky 
joints between different days' work, when necessary to stop for any reason 
and continue concreting later, will be described. 

One of the most frequent mistakes in concrete work is the use of natural 
bank-run material in place of the definite concrete mixture specified for the 
work. For instance, many persons think that when a 1:2:3 mixture is 
specified, 5 cubic feet of natural bank-run material can be used in place of 
the specified 2 cubic feet of sand and 3 cubic feet of pebbles. Bank-run 
material almost always contains twice as much sand as pebbles and for 
strength as well as for watertightness the proportions should be practically 
the opposite, that is, there should be only half as much sand as pebbles. 
So before using in a concrete mixture, bank-run material must be screened 
so that the sand and pebbles may be correctly proportioned. 

If the location selected for a tank does not naturally provide a good 
foundation, one must be prepared by digging off all vegetation and other 
refuse, and by filling any soft spots with well-compacted earth, hard cin- 
ders free from ashes, or clean gravel containing but little sand. The site 
where the tank is to be placed should be graded up slightly so that water 
will drain away rapidly from under the structure and so that pools of water 
will not form around it. 

One of the simplest and perhaps most useful concrete troughs for the 
beginner to attempt as his first work of this kind, is shown in Figure 2. 
This represents a portable concrete trough, such as would be handy for 
hog or sheep feeding or watering. Such a trough can be cast upside down, 
either on an even level barn floor or a platform prepared especially for the 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 



purpose. The center sketch in Figure 2, gives a general view of the forms, 
and the platform on which they are fixed and supported, while to the right 
of Figure 2, is shown the appearance of the trough after forms have been 
removed, except that a portion has been cut away to show the reinforcing. 
The form for this trough has been so planned that the sides and ends may 
be held in proper position without nailing them together when setting up 
the parts. Side forms should be of 2-inch plank, to prevent them from bulg- 
ing out of line when placing concrete. Side forms have cleats nailed at each 
end, against which the end boards are placed, while sides are held firmly 
against these end pieces by wood clamps. 



/■* in 




form c/amps 



C/eats 



SECTION THRU 
FORM 




Figure 2. Details of form construction for a small, portable feeding or watering trough. Such a 
trough may readily be cast upside down, as shown in this sketch. 



The core, or inside form, is built by using 1-inch boards for the sides and 
ends while the bottom is of 2-inch plank rounded off by planing the edges so 
that the bottom of the finished trough will be slightly rounded instead of 
having sharp corners. This is clearly illustrated in the upper drawing of 
Figure 2, which shows a section crosswise through the forms as they 
appear when set up. Blocks are fixed on the 2-inch plank platform on which 
forms rest to hold the sides and the core form in proper position. 

Every tank should be reinforced. The one illustrated in Figure 2 may 
be reinforced either with round steel rods placed as shown in the cut-away 
end of the sketch at the right-hand side of Figure 2, or by rods and 1-inch 
poultry netting or mesh combined with rods. • 

As the sides of this trough are only 2 inches thick at the top, the maximum 
size pebbles or broken stone used in the concrete mixture should not 
exceed % inch. This will make it possible to work the concrete around the 
reinforcing and thus secure a good bond or adhesion between reinforcing 
and concrete. 



6 



CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 



In casting this trough, about 2 inches of 1:2:3 concrete mixed to a 
quaky consistency should first be placed all around in the form, then a 
34-inch round rod, bent so that its shape will conform to a line all around 
the core form and about 1 inch from the side forms, should be laid in the 
concrete. The ends of the rod should lap at least 12 inches, at the center 
of a side. If one rod is not long enough to go entirely around the trough, 
then two may be used, the laps being made at the center of a side, not at a 
corner or end. Laps should be securely bound together with wire of about 
No. 16 gage. When this rod has been placed as described, more concrete 




Figure 3. A. small concrete watering trough such as might have been made after the manner sug- 
gested in Figure 2. 



should be put in the form until it has been filled to within about 1 inch 
of the top, when three additional rods are placed, spaced as shown in the 
cut-away portion in the general view to the right of Figure 2. After this 
the remaining concrete necessary to fill the form may be placed and struck 
off level with the top of side forms by using a straightedge and finally 
finishing the surface with a wood float or trowel. When placing concrete, 
a small spading tool or sharpened flat stick, should be used to work the 
concrete in the forms, especially next to form faces, so that the pebbles in 
the concrete mixture will be forced back from the form faces, allowing 
the sand-cement mortar to come to the surface and preventing holes 
caused by air bubbles. Tapping forms while placing concrete will help to 
give a smooth surface to the work. 

Sides and end forms should not be removed until the concrete has been 
given at least twenty-four hours to harden under favorable weather condi- 
tions, and a longer period in cool weather. Remove the form clamps gently, 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 



carefully lift off the side and end forms, and if there are any holes or rough 
spots on the surface fill them with mortar made of 1 part cement to 2 parts 
clean, coarse sand. If a smoother finish is desired, the whole surface may 
be gone over with a paint consisting of cement and water mixed to the 
consistency of cream and applied with a whitewash brush. The trough 
should then be covered with wet hay, straw, burlap, or a similar protective 
covering to prevent the concrete from drying out too rapidly. This cover- 
ing should be left in place for not less than a week under most favorable 
weather conditions, and for two weeks or more in cool weather, and be 
kept wet by frequent sprinkling. At the end of this time if the concrete has 
been properly protected, it will have become strong enough to permit 
turning the trough over so the core or inside form can be removed. Any 
holes or rough spots on the inside may be pointed up with sand-cement 
mortar, as was done on the outer surface. Also, if desired, a cement paint 
can be applied to the interior. When this has hardened, the trough may be 
carefully moved to the site where it is to be used, and put into service. 

Great care should be taken when moving the trough not to subject it to 
sudden jars, as the concrete will not have gained its full strength and might 
be injured if not carefully handled. 

Estimate of Materials Required for Small Feeding Trough 

Outside dimensions: 1 foot 2 inches by 5 feet 6 inches. 

Sides : 10 inches high. 

Floor: 33^ inches thick. 

Concrete mixture =1 :2 :3. 

Volume of concrete =3% cubic feet. 

Materials required: 

1 sack Portland cement. 

2 cubic feet sand. 

3 cubic feet pebbles or broken stone. 
26 feet 3^-inch round rods (43^ pounds). 



RECTANGULAR STOCK WATERING TANK 

In Figure 4, there is shown a design for a stock watering tank suitable 
for the barnyard or pasture lot. Forms for rectangular troughs or tanks 
are more easily made and therefore this shape is preferred by those who do 
their own concreting. The construction of circular troughs or tanks re- 
quires greater skill and will be discussed later. 

In Figure 4, suggestions for form construction are given. Also, the 
forms are shown filled with concrete, this for the purpose of better illus- 
trating the placing of reinforcing and several features of the design which 
are necessary to success. For instance, the inside face of the walls of this 
tank is battered, that is, the tank walls are thinner at the top than at the 
bottom, thus giving a slope to the inside wall face for the purpose 
of relieving the tank walls from pressure when water freezes. Unless tanks 
of this kind are built with such a slope to the inside wall face, a floating 
cone or similar device must be used to prevent the ice pressure from burst- 
ing the tank. It will be noticed that no dimensions are shown on the plan. 



8 



CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 



Certain dimensions, however, will be assumed later for the purpose of 
giving an estimate of the quantities of material required for a tank of this 
kind. 

As this tank is designed, it is presumed that concrete will be placed 
from start to finish, without stopping the work. Joints through which 
leakage might take place will thus be avoided. The tank is supposed to 
rest on a foundation of well compacted soil that makes a subbase of special 
material unnecessary. Tank walls start in a trench below ground. Forms 
are not required for the below ground portions of the work if the earth is 
firm enough to prevent caving while concrete is being placed. When 




Jf-in. reinforcing 
roc/a 



Figure 4. Concrete stock watering trough similar to that shown in Figure 1. The method of con- 
struction here illustrated contemplates that concreting will be continuous from start to finish, thus. pre- 
venting construction joints in the work. 



ground level is reached, however, forms are set up as shown. After the 
trenches are filled, 2^ inches of concrete for the floor is placed and rein- 
forcing set in position as shown. This is shown as J^-inch round rods 
previously bent to a "U" shape so that reinforcing of tank walls and floor 
is continuous ; that is, the rods when bent in this manner not only form rein- 
forcing for the tank floor but vertical reinforcing for the walls or sides. 
This applies also to rods which run lengthwise of the tank, the ends of 
these being bent up in the same manner to form vertical reinforcing for the 
ends. The reinforcing can be assembled outside of the forms, the rods 
being wired together at all intersections, or points where they cross and 
then set in place in the forms, after which 2J^ inches additional concrete 
is placed to complete the tank floor. Then the inside form, which should 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 



have been complete before concreting was commenced, is set in position 
and secured in place by means of the clamps extending across forms, and 
the concrete for side walls placed, thus preventing the formation of any 
construction joint where tank walls and floor join. 




Figure 5. Sometimes it is desirable to place a cover on stock watering troughs to prevent refuse 
from blowing into and fouling the water. 



All concrete watering troughs or tanks which are used in the barnyard 
or pasture lot should have a concrete pavement laid around them to prevent 
animals from transforming the surroundings into a mudhole ; and as shown 
in this sketch, the tank or trough and pavement should be constructed 
independently. 

Assuming that the tank illustrated in Figure 4 is of the dimensions 
given below, the following materials will be required to build it: 

Estimate of Materials Required for Trough Shown in Figure 4 

Outside dimensions: 3 feet 2 inches by 8 feet. 

Walls: 4 feet 1 inch deep, including foundations. 

Floor: 5 inches thick. 

Concrete mixture - 1:2:3. 

Volume of concrete - 2 3^2 cubic yards. 

Required: 

18 sacks Portland cement. 
134 cubic yards sand. 
1% cubic yards pebbles or broken stone. 
194 feet 34-inch round steel rods (33 pounds). 



10 



CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 



For each additional foot of length add to the foregoing quantities: 

1 sack Portland cement. 

2 cubic feet sand. 

3 cubic feet pebbles or broken stone. 

14 feet of 34-inch round steel rods (2 }/& pounds). 

Other suggestions for constructing a tank similar to that shown in 
Figure 4, are given in Figures 6 and 7. In Figure 6, a method 
whereby concreting may be stopped when the top of the floor level is 
reached and resumed later to place the side walls, is illustrated. Here the 
method of securing a watertight connection between floor and side walls 
consists of inserting a continuous strip of sheet metal in the concrete along 
a line corresponding to the center of the walls and at the floor level, so that 
part of this strip will project above floor level and will therefore be em- 
bedded in the concrete of the side walls when the latter are placed. When 
placing this metal strip and stopping work, the concrete each side of the 
metal strip should be left slightly rough in the forms and when concreting 
is again started this surface should be well cleaned by scrubbing and wash- 
ing, and immediately before placing concrete, the old concrete and the 
projecting portion of the metal plate should be thoroughly painted with 
a paint of cement and water mixed to the consistency of thick cream, so 
as to prevent leakage where the two separate days' concreting join. 



£-/hch round 
re//) fore iffy rods 



Metal 
plate 




v. "»l*i.lfc. 



Joint 



'Concrete 
M '~ pare/nenr. 



Figure 6. Design for a watering trough similar to that shown in Figure 4, except that a method is 
illustrated for securing a watertight joint when necessary to discontinue concreting before the structure 
is finished. 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 



11 




Cement 
grouted 
Ooint 



Figure 7. Another suggestion for tank construction, where the structure is set on a slab resting 
on a gravel fill. 



■4- in b/4-//7. 



<V4 



I 



r 



i 



±=± 



/ior/ja/?/i7/ brace 



1 



I -inch .•'.■ 
boarc/s 
7 ft 4- in. 



2 /n- by 4- (ft. 



2in.b/4in^\ 



•■r :: v----y- : 




Plan. m -?&?e p/af e ■ 

Figure 8. Plan and cross-sectional view of the types of troughs illustrated in Figures 4 and 6. 



12 



CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 



Two other suggestions are offered in Figure 7. This shows a tank 
laid on a slab resting upon a gravel fill, or subbase. When the slab on 
which the tank walls rest is built, a groove is formed in it along a line 
corresponding to the center of the base of the side walls. When concrete 
for the side walls is placed this groove is well cleaned by brushing with a 
wire brush and scrubbing with water, then painting with a thick cement 
paint immediately before placing concrete for the side walls. A water- 
tight joint should result, although it should be understood that neither of 
the methods illustrated in Figures 6 and 7 is as good as that shown in 
Figure 4. 



j:-inch round, verfi 
reinforcing rods 
/2 inches apar/) 

hori^ontoi roc/s 

6 Inches apart. 




^-inc/? round re- 
inforcing roc/s 
6 inches aparf 
jboff? directions. 



2- in. discharge pipe . 

Figure 9. Details for providing water inlet and outlet in the types of troughs already illustrated. 



An estimate of the materials necessary to construct a tank after the 
methods shown in Figures 6 and 7 is given below. 



Estimate of Materials Required for Trough Shown in Figure 6 

Outside dimensions: 3 feet 2 inches by 8 feet. 

Walls: 4 feet 1 inch deep, including foundations. 

Floor: 5 inches thick. 

Concrete mixture = 1:2:3. 

Volume of concrete = 2 3^ cubic yards. 

Required: 

18 sacks Portland cement. 
\]/i cubic yards of sand. 
\% cubic yards pebbles or broken stone. 
141 feet J^ _mcn round rods (24 pounds). 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 13 

For each additional foot of length add to the foregoing quantities : 

1 sack Portland cement. 

2 cubic feet of sand. 

3 cubic feet pebbles or broken stone. 
13 feet 34-inch round rods (234 pounds). 

Estimate of Materials Required for Trough Shown in Figure 7 

Outside dimensions: 3 feet 2 inches by 8 feet. 
Walls: 2 feet 1 inch deep. 
Floor: 5 inches thick. 
Concrete mixture = 1:2:3. 
Volume of concrete = 1M cubic yards. 
Required: 

9 sacks Portland cement. 

% cubic yard sand. 
1 cubic yard pebbles. 
236 feet 34 -m ch round rods (39J^ pounds). 
For each additional 13^ feet of length, add to the foregoing 
quantities : 

1 sack Portland cement. 

2 cubic feet sand. 

3 cubic feet pebbles. 

26 feet 34 _mcn round rods (43^2 pounds). 

Figure 8 illustrates in plan and cross-section the methods of construc- 
tion shown in Figures 4 and 6. 

In tanks or troughs of this kind provisions are usually made for 
water inlet and outlet pipes. A detail of inlet and outlet is shown in Figure 
9. This assumes that the 2-inch discharge pipe will at some point outside 
of the tank, be provided with what plumbers call a two-way valve, to which 
two separate pipe lines may be connected — one coming from the water 
supply and the other leading to a drain outlet that will conduct water away 
from the tank when necessary to empty it for cleaning or other purposes. 
In the latter case the overflow pipe with strainer on top is unscrewed at 
the point indicated by the word "Drain." After the tank has been filled, 
the two-way valve is so set that overflow may take place through the 
strainer on top of the pipe and be led away through the waste pipe to 
the drain. 

CONCRETE MILK COOLING TANK 

Every farm needs a milkhouse, and no milkhouse is complete without 
a cooling tank, which, both for permanence and sanitation, should be built 
of concrete. Such a tank can easily be kept clean and if properly built, is 
free from the necessity of continual repair — an objectionable feature of all 
other types of tanks. 

Figure 10 is a design for a concrete milk cooling tank. The width is 2 
feet 6 inches, which is sufficiently wide to accommodate two rows of the 
standard 14-inch milk cans. Any capacity may be secured by varying the 



14 



CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 



„.. JInnnNv^ 

.4 i'O*-'. - . :o". - .'-:.0 : .'.- •.«'."■ ■.•."■:-'^ 






*v 



Talk 




s 







z 
o 

h 

(J 

ID 

(0 



^ligp ~is3i8 ^ 



•■■)o-..'.0:::or.-.-.^.-- 



I 



I PI 












Figure 10. Design for reinforced concrete milk-cooling tank. 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 15 

length of the tank. An examination of this design will show that there 
are a number of advantages aside from the fact that the construction is 
permanent and sanitary. The bottom of the tank is 8 inches below the 
milk room floor level making it easy to lift cans from the tank. The 
available inside depth of the tank is 173^2 inches, because of the construc- 
tion of the floor, which has 1-inch corrugations to permit a free circulation 
of water beneath the cans, and also because the overflow pipe outlet is 
\}/2 inches below the top of the tank. When the standard size milk cans 
rest on the bottom of this tank, they will be surrounded by water up to the 
neck, and the possibility of water entering them and thus getting into the 
milk will be prevented. 

Tank floor and walls should be concreted at one operation. The floor 
of the tank should be 6 inches thick plus the 1 inch provided for forming 
corrugations, while the tank walls should be 4 inches thick. Reinforcing 
throughout is shown as J^-inch round rods spaced as indicated in the 
drawings. Reinforcing rods for the floor are bent "U" shape and spaced 
12 inches apart. This makes the reinforcing of tank floor and side walls 
continuous. Horizontal rods in the wall should extend around the tank 
as continuous bands. Care should be taken to lap the ends of rods at 
least 12 inches when necessary to make splices, these laps being made at a 
side. Reinforcing should be firmly wired together at all intersections so 
as to hold it in correct position while placing concrete. 

The top of the tank wall over which milk cans must be lifted should be 
protected by metal, which in this design is shown as a 4-inch channel iron 
anchored in the concrete by bolts as shown in detail in the lower right-hand 
sketch of Figure 10. These bolts should be threaded into holes in the 
channel iron, preferably a little to one side of its center so that when the 
channel iron with bolts attached is "seated" in the concrete, the entrance 
of these bolts will not be interfered with by the reinforcing rods in the tank 
walls. Forms should be filled very nearly full, say to within J^ inch of 
the top, before setting the channel in place. Bolts may be roughened on 
the sides by cutting spurs in them with a cold chisel, then the channel 
with bolts attached should at once be firmly seated in the concrete by ham- 
mering it into place all along the top with a wood maul. 

After concreting has been finished the forms should be left in place for 
at least 24 hours, under favorable weather conditions. Then the inside 
form may be removed and any holes or rough spots on the surface pointed 
up with a 1:2 sand-cement mortar. Arrangements should be made when 
planning the forms for this work to provide for the pipes necessary for 
inlet and outlet of water. 

An estimate of the quantity of materials required to construct this 
tank is given below. 

Estimate of Materials Required for Milk Cooling Tank 

Outside dimensions: 3 feet 2 inches by 11 feet 4 inches. 

Walls: 2 feet 2 inches deep. 

Floor: 7 inches thick (including corrugations). 

Concrete mixture = 1:2:3. 

Volume of concrete = 1J^ cubic yards. 



16 



CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 



Required : 

11 sacks Portland cement. 
% cubic yard sand. 
lj| cubic yards pebbles or broken stone. 
230 feet 34-inch round rods (38 pounds). 
One 4-inch channel by 5.25 pounds per foot, 11 feet 4 inches long 

(60 pounds). 
Seven z /% by 6-inch anchor bolts. 

CIRCULAR CONCRETE WATERING TANK 

Many farmers have a preference for circular stock watering tanks, but 
in the past such structures have not been so easy to build as rectangular 
ones, simply because of the carpenter skill required to make circular forms. 
Since commercial silo forms have been perfected in so great a variety, how- 
ever, circular tanks and other structures have become more popular and 
much easier to construct than formerly. 




6'in- 



6 feet 



GENERAL VIEW 
tZ feet 



^^^^f^^^^ 7 ^^^^^^^ 



5jgSjTg5ggggi5?g5^ 



^^f^^^^^^^^^ 



5ECTION 



6 in. 



-B 



am. 

Bin 



-Pavement 



^//"//^y^Ai 



Figure 11. Circular concrete watering tank with concrete pavement. Such a structure can readily 
be built by using commercial silo forms. 



Figure 11 shows in general view and section a reinforced concrete cir- 
cular watering tank 12 feet in diameter by 20 inches deep inside, with a 
pavement all around it to prevent the surroundings from becoming muddy. 

In a booklet issued by the Portland Cement Association and entitled 
"Concrete Feeding Floors, Rarnyard Pavements and Walks," full details 
are given as to walk and pavement construction. This booklet may be 
obtained on request, free of charge. 

As when building rectangular tanks, the site for this circular structure 
should be prepared by grading up the site slightly and firmly compacting 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 



17 



the soil upon which the tank is to rest, so that good drainage from beneath 
will be secured. In some cases it may be necessary to provide a gravel or 
cinder subbase, as mentioned in connection with the rectangular tanks 
previously illustrated and described. 




Figure 12. A finished circular concrete watering tank with pavement, such as suggested by the 
design in Figure 11. 

This plan shows all necessary details for the dimensions given, and 
details of construction as regards mixing and placing concrete are the 
same as for all tanks. Mention may be made, however, of the fact that 
the tank wall is constructed first, after which the floor is laid and the joint 
all around the tank walls where floor and walls meet, is sealed against 
leakage by filling with thick hot tar or asphalt, after the concrete floor has 
hardened. Or, a tar-paper joint may be formed by setting a strip of tar 
paper against and all around the tank wall, before concrete is placed. 

An estimate of the materials required to build this tank of the dimen- 
sions shown, is given below. 



Estimate of Materials Required for Circular Watering Tank 

Outside diameter: 13 feet. 

Walls: 2 feet 8 inches deep. 

Floor: 6 inches thick. 

Concrete mixture = 1:2:3. 

Volume of concrete = \\]^ cubic yards. 

Required : 

83 sacks Portland cement. 
6 cubic yards sand. 
9M cubic yards pebbles or broken stone. 
176 feet J^f-inch round rods (29J^ pounds). 



18 CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 




Figure 13. This circular watering tank was built with commercial silo forms. The surroundings 
would be much improved were there a concrete pavement around the structure. 







Figure 14. A covered circular concrete watering tank built by using commercial silo forms — an 
attractive, permanent, sanitary structure — a desirable asset for any farm. 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 



19 




Figure 15. This circular concrete watering tank also was built by using commercial silo forms. 
Notice the reinforced concrete cover. 



REINFORCED CONCRETE CISTERN WITH FILTER 

Sometimes cisterns are built wholly or in part above ground, yet the 
natural place for such a structure is below ground. The reinforced 
concrete cistern shown in Figure 16 is 8 by 8 feet square, outside, by 7 feet 
6 inches deep, thus providing an approximate capacity of 70 barrels. There 
is also shown a filter built as a part of the cistern. 

Although this plan shows very complete details and dimensions, some 
particular features of the design will be pointed out. For instance, the 
cistern floor is constructed separately from the side walls. When forms 
are set, they are blocked up sufficient distance to permit a little concrete to 
spread out from beneath them, thus forming sort of a footing on the inside. 
Refore laying the floor, the area on which the concrete is to be placed should 
be well compacted by ramming with a heavy tamper so that everywhere 
the same uniform bearing will be secured. Reinforcing throughout is 
shown as 3^-inch round steel rods spaced 6 inches apart in both directions. 
Side walls, floor and cistern top, or cover, are all 6 inches thick. 

Although this design shows the cistern placed to such a depth in the 
ground that almost all of the filter compartment is below ground, it is not 
necessary that the structure be set so deep. Most of the filter may be 
above ground if so desired, leaving only a covering of from 6 to 10 inches 
of earth on the cistern top or roof. 

There are two compartments to the filter. The left-hand one is intended 
to receive the water which comes from the house gutters or other source of 
supply. It enters this compartment through a 6-inch tile set in the wall 



20 



CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 



as shown. This compartment is for the purpose of allowing refuse that 
may be in the water, to settle out of it before reaching the filter bed. A 
baffle board is provided between inlets to the first compartment and the 
filter bed so that any strong current flow will be broken up, thus preventing 



■- ■,* i ■ ii i i i ■ i i 

i — 1"~i~T i n i "t — r—\—\— r— }— r— f 

-r4-W-4-H-H-M--!--H-- 

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,T Hi^f r?,V,' 



a ^s 






{-i-t-l-j-j-rTl-i-r 

'-•Tl rrn-1-r 

H-H-rLf 



..8, "1 ,,1 



.^^ ^^,^ | .^ r , . r .Tr^,-- , -,^-,» ; ir i , I j 

J'J —I i L_l I _ i_ — 



2 ft. 6 in. 



>. ifa— i — i — >- — < — i-_j_-l-_ 
:1ft <£f?ods spaced ! 



Afa/7/70/e coyer 
arc/ reinforcement 

3 ft. 4- in. S 



I ' I'll 

I I ' I 

4r — 1 — +-— f— — t- 
' ' I I c 

4f4-!-i- 

-1-4 1- /?i?^S 

[ J 6 inches 




-tf|£ 



i ; 
u 



Rods 6 in. apart 

yi\;ii;.l r~ / 4- In. jf . ^r«»r*' 






m^ 



5ECTION 



WTffff/ 



Note: 

All rods are £-inch 

diameter. 



Tar Joint 



Figure 16. Design for reinforced concrete cistern with filter. 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 21 

incoming water from tearing up the filtering materials. A screen of copper 
wire is placed over the entrance to the filter bed to prevent leaves and 
similar rubbish from getting onto the filter. The filter compartment has 
a 3-inch reinforced concrete slab for a cover, which is shown as cast in one 
piece, although this may be made in two pieces if desired. 

The object of placing the filter on top of the cistern instead of to 
one side as a separate structure simplifies the work of building and makes 
a separate manhole for entrance into the cistern unnecessary, because the 
cistern will probably not require cleaning oftener than it will naturally be 
necessary to renew the filtering material; and as the slab at the bottom of 
the filter, which supports the filtering materials is removable, the filter 
compartment, when empty, serves as a manhole to the cistern. 

The perforated slab mentioned is 2 feet 5 inches square and is of rein- 
forced concrete. Openings in the slab are made by setting tapered square 
plugs into the concrete while it is soft, or by nailing these plugs to the 
bottom of the form, with tapered ends up and casting the slab upside down. 
When the concrete has hardened these plugs will leave corresponding 
openings in the slab. On top of the perforated slab a copper screen 2 feet 
5 inches square is placed. This is rust-proof and practically permanent. 
Mesh openings in the screen should be about }/$ inch square. Several 
inches of clean, selected, well-graded charcoal, ranging in size from }/$ up 
to }/i inch, are placed on the screen, then a layer of washed, well-graded 
sand and pebbles. 

Care should be taken not to remove forms supporting the roof of this 
structure until concrete has thoroughly hardened. Under favorable 
weather conditions, forms may be removed two weeks after placing the 
last concrete. It is well, however, to be on the safe side and not to remove 
them too soon. If the work is done during cool weather, concrete will 
harden much more slowly and it may be necessary to leave the forms sup- 
porting the cistern roof, or cover, in place for a month. 

Below will be found an estimate of materials required to construct a 
cistern of the dimensions shown in this plan. 

Estimate of Materials Required for Cistern 

Outside dimensions : 8 by 8 feet. 

Walls: 7 feet 6 inches deep. 

Floor and roof: 6 inches thick. 

Concrete mixture = 1:2:3. 

Volume of concrete = 1% cubic yards. 

Required : 

54 sacks Portland cement. 
4 cubic yards sand. 

6 cubic yards pebbles or broken stone. 
1518 feet 34-mch round rods (254 pounds). 



22 



CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 



RECTANGULAR CONCRETE HOG WALLOW 

Among the structures which may properly be classed as a kind of tank 
is the concrete hog wallow. The value of a hog wallow from the standpoint 
of promoting better sanitation and hence raising the standard of health 
among hogs, has been proven many times. 



Ground levels 



t 



7 ft 



m 



W v 3 

6?<$\ /~~Tar filled Joint 

IS IT 



t^Lap 



6 in 

zfcrL 




Well compacted zartt) 
SECTION CROSSWISE. 



^^jp 



?0i 
*4 * 







w- 

-6in. 



...LI 



Corrugations %-in. bars —£ 



Prair?- 






■| ' -*-/>7. discharge pipo-/,, 



mi 



Section lengthwise 



Figure 17. Design for reinforced concrete hog wallow. 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 



23 



Many discreditable things have been said of the hog. He is not filthy 
by choice, and provides for himself a wallow in the mud simply because 
his keepers have not provided a better and cleaner one. A concrete hog 
wallow not only adds to the comfort of hogs in hot weather but accom- 
plishes also the purpose of a dipping vat in which the animals themselves 
do all the work. Medicated solutions can be mixed with the water in the 
tank, or germicidal oils used which, floating on the water, accomplish 
desired medication. 

Some persons have made hog wallows by simply applying cement 
plaster directly to the earth walls and floor of an excavation. Such con- 
struction can at best be but temporary, while if concrete is mixed and 
placed according to proper practice the results are permanent, and cheaper 
in the end. 

Hog wallows should be built by observing practically the same princi- 
ples that would apply in constructing a watering trough or tank. 




Figure 18. Contentment on every face, 
his owner neglects to provide a better one. 



The hog uses or makes a mud hole his wallow only when 



Two sectional views and a general view of a rectangular concrete hog 
wallow are shown in Figure 17. This is simply a concrete basin formed by 
making an excavation of the required depth and size, building a 6-inch 
wall all around the inside, and then laying a concrete floor on the bottom 
of the excavation. 

If the site where the hog wallow is to be built is well drained, the soil 
on which the floor is laid need have no special preparation other than being 
well compacted before the concrete is placed. At one end of the wallow a 
pavement slab is provided so that when the animals leave the wallow, the 



24 CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 

immediate vicinity will not become a mudhole. To make it easy for the 
hogs to enter and leave the wallow, the floor slopes upward at one end and 
the surface is grooved to provide a better foothold for the hogs when they 
leave the wallow. An apron is shown placed all around the pavement slab 
to prevent the hogs from rooting underneath. 

Corners inside the wallow should be slightly rounded so the pool can 
be easily and thoroughly cleaned when necessary. The wallow should be 
about 18 inches deep and located convenient to water supply so that it 
can easily be refilled as desired. Likewise, a drain outlet should be pro- 
vided for emptying the pool when necessary. 

In the lengthwise section in Figure 17, the distance which the side walls 
should extend below ground is shown as variable, this meaning that they 
may have to extend 3 feet below ground level to prevent possible disturb- 
ance from heaving due to frost. 

If this tank is constructed' as shown, no reinforcing will be required in 
the floor and only two continuous horizontal %-inch round rods in the curb 
or side walls, spaced as shown. These are for the purpose of preventing 
possible cracking from earth pressure, or cracking at corners as a result of 
temperature changes. 

The inlet pipe shown can be made to serve as a drain also by fitting to 
the pipe line outside of the structure a two-way valve, one branch of which 
connects with the water supply, and the other with a tile waste line. When 
the wallow has been filled with water, the valve may be turned to shut off 
the supply and to permit overflow to pass to the waste pipe. When it is 
desired to empty the wallow, the pipe is unscrewed at floor level where it 
is threaded into a flange. 

Estimate of Materials Required for Rectangular Hog Wallow 

Outside dimensions: 8 by 12 feet. 
Walls: 2 feet deep. 
Floor and pavement: 6 inches thick. 
Concrete mixture = 1:23^:4. 
Volume of concrete =4.4 cubic yards. 

Required : 

25 sacks Portland cement. 

V/i cubic yards sand. 

3% cubic yards pebbles or broken stone. 
84 feet 34-inch round rods (14 pounds). 

If walls of hog wallow are made 3 feet deep, then add to the foregoing 
quantities : 

5 sacks Portland cement. 
3^ cubic yard sand. 
% cubic yard pebbles or broken stone. 

In Figure 19 there is a suggested design for a circular concrete hog 
wallow. This is shown in general view and section. A structure of this 
kind can very readily be built by using commercial silo forms. General 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 



25 



details of construction are so nearly like those described for the rectangular 
pool that no special description of this drawing should be necessary. 



General View of 
Hoe Wallow 



^M 



{Pavement 
S feet. 



% 



/ _5 s. rr 



^/>7. 




5ECTI0N 



<4--in. discharge pipe . 



Figure 19. Design for circular reinforced concrete hog wallow. Another one of those structures 
which can readily be made by using commercial silo forms. 

Estimate of Materials Required for Circular Hog Wallow 

Outside dimensions: 15 feet diameter. 

Walls : 3 feet deep. 

Floor: 6 inches thick. 

Concrete mixture = 1:23^:4. 

Volume of concrete =7^ cubic yards.* 

Required : 

42 sacks Portland cement. 
4 cubic yards sand. 
6J4 cubic yards pebbles or broken stone. 
100 feet 34-inch round rods (16% pounds). 



26 



CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 



CONCRETE MANURE PIT WITH SUMP 

As stored on many farms, awaiting a convenient time for spreading over 
the land, manure loses a very large portion of its fertilizing value. Every 
one who has had opportunity to compare the old way of keeping manure 
stacked in an unprotected pile alongside of the stable, with the modern 
way in a concrete manure pit, has realized how soon the losses resulting 
from the old method would have paid for the modern concrete pit. 




Figure 20. 
ing elements. 



This wasteful way of handling manure robs it of by far the largest portion of its fertiliz- 



Figure 21 illustrates a concrete manure pit which has been planned 
with a view to permitting backing a wagon into the pit for loading. The 
portion of the floor beyond the incline in the pit is given a gentle slope of 
x /i inch to the foot toward a gutter at the end, which in turn slopes toward 
a sump placed at one corner of the pit. This sump is for the purpose of 
receiving the liquid content of the manure and holding this liquid until 
convenient to pump it out and dispose of it by sprinkling on the land or 
otherwise. 

For convenience in packing manure properly in a pit of this kind and 
to better control or regulate decomposition, the inside face of walls should 
be given a batter or slope as shown in the drawing. The incline at the 
entrance end is shown with grooves in the surface to provide a better foot- 
hold for teams when starting a heavily-loaded wagon out of the pit. If this 
surface is not steeper than 15 degrees with the horizontal probably such 
grooves will not be necessary. 

This pit is 3 feet deep in the main portion and 16 by 31 feet, outside 
dimensions. The floor of this pit should be reinforced with round rods. 

Materials required to build a structure of the dimensions shown are 
as follows: 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 



27 



GENERAL VIEW OF 
MANURE PIT. 




Apron 




SECTION THROUGH END WALL 

?/ I K 6 in 

Grounc 
/eve/ 



jf-mch rounc/ roc/s 
/Z in. apart in ooth a~i sections 



We// compacted earth. 

Section 



Jt:?/ 

2 ft 6 in 10: t/ < 

earth. '.?' ■% %;ua 5 



>o 



', 



^ w^xm 



3ump 



Figure 21. Design for reinforced concrete manure pit with sump. Such a structure preserves all of 
the fertilizing elements in manure. 




Figure 22. One corner of concrete manure pit showing location of sump, such as suggested in 
Figure 21. 



28 



CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 



Estimate of Materials Required for Rectangular Concrete 

Manure Pit 

Outside dimensions: 16 by 31 feet. 

Walls: 3 feet 6 inches deep. 

Floor: 6 inches thick. 

Concrete mixture = 1:23^:4. 

Volume of concrete = 20 34 cubic yards. 

Required : 

114 sacks Portland cement. 
10J4 cubic yards sand. 
17 cubic yards pebbles or broken stone. 
1043 feet j^-inch round rods (175 pounds). 

Figure 23 shows a manure pit with cistern adjoining for the purpose of 
collecting and storing more liquid manure than would be possible in a 
small sump. This manure pit is not planned so that a wagon can be 
backed in for loading. Generally it will be found more convenient to load 
manure from a pit of this kind into a wagon if two-thirds the height of the 
pit walls are above ground level. There is no objection to having part of 
the cistern above ground also. 




GENERAL VIEW 
OF MANURE PIT 



Manhole r.n^ar S^7 ~ l~f 



£-/n. round roofs spaced 6 /n. 
nori}onfa//y and rert/ca/fy 




lff\ ,6-inTile 7^ V 

isgy /_ ~-~ 3 '°_ p ° : A '"■/* '"■_ j A _ 



,Mefal fabric 

We// compacted earth 

Section 




roriab/0. 



WW/'q&Vw 



Figure 23. Another design for reinforced concrete manure pit showing a cistern provided for caring 
for liquid fertilizer. 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 



29 




Figure 24. Covered manure pit with litter carrier connecting with the barn. It is desirable when 
possible to screen in the pit to prevent the manure pile from becoming a breeding place for flies or other 
disease carrying insects. 

Reinforcing for the floor of this pit is shown as metal fabric, or wire 
mesh. Details of construction for the cistern are in general the same as 
already described for the cistern shown elsewhere in this booklet; that is, 
the same principles of concreting should be observed throughout the work. 



Estimate of Materials Required for Rectangular Concrete 

Manure Pit with Cistern 

Outside dimensions: 20 by 25 feet. 
Walls: 3 feet 2 inches deep. 
Floor: 6 inches thick. 
Concrete mixture = 1 : 2 3^ : 4. 
Volume of concrete = 23 cubic yards. 

Required : 

123 sacks Portland cement. 

llj^ cubic yards sand. 

1834 cubic yards pebbles or broken stone. 
800 feet 34-inch round rods (134 pounds). 
372 square feet wire mesh fabric (186 pounds). 



30 



CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 




Figure 25. Concrete manure pi I conveniently 
located so that stable refuse may be thrown di- 
rectly into it from the interior of the building. 



Figure 26. Small concrete manure pit, also 
conveniently located. 



ELEVATED CONCRETE WATER TANK 

No proof as to the advan- 
tages of a quantity of stored 
water on the farm, especially in 
the case of an outbreak of fire, 
should be necessary. Many 
farmers have had built on their 
places, elevated water tanks from 
which a good supply of water 
under pressure could be obtained 
for just such emergencies, while 
at all times supplying the house 
plumbing. 

Every structure of this type 
is, of course, a subject for special 
design. In Figure 27 there is 
shown such a tank which is lo- 
cated on the dairy farm of one of 
Illinois' enterprising dairymen 
who, incidentally, is one of the 
most successful silo contractors 
in the state and who designed 
the tank shown and built it with 
his own farm laborers. 




Figure 27. Elevated reinforced concrete water- 
ing tank on a dairy farm near Lockport, Illinois. 
Such a supply of stored water on the farm comes in 
handy in case of fire, not to mention other occasions. 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 



31 



CIRCULAR CONCRETE MILKHOUSE WITH OVER- 
HEAD WATER TANK 

Circular structures are growing in favor, no doubt largely because of 
the adaptability of modern silo forms, and the suggestions for a circular 
milkhouse with overhead water tank shown in Figure 28, will no doubt 
be of interest. These sketche* are offered merely as illustrations of the 



-Manho/e coyer 



t 




II it 



Part plan 
of roof 



Window 



Cooling Tank 



- Corrugation 5 



1 _ . 














r 


V 






/ 




/ 








V 


3/ 


> 

z 


/ 


-Up 




A 


1 / 








Floor Plan 


\ 



o. - jo — 
f«b" : VLij:.;' 

<>■ ''i'.o: 



m. 



Reinforcing rod's 



S 



Oyerf/ow 



Corrugations*? 



-<?^/////"//////M 



W///W/////////////////Y' 



ection through 
Pooling Tank 



Door 

Figure 28. Suggested design for the general lay-out and scheme of construction for a circular concrete 
milkhouse with an overhead water tank and with milk-cooling tank. 



32 



CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 



general principles governing the construction of a building of this type, 
no dimensions being given. 

In the section of the milk cooling tank, the same general details are 
shown as in a previous design for milk cooling tank described elsewhere in 
this booklet. 

The advantages of a structure such as illustrated in Figure 28 will be 
apparent to any progressive dairy farmer. Stored water in the overhead 
tank helps to maintain a suitable temperature in the milk room. It is not 
uncommon to combine with structures of this kind, facilities for ice storage, 
thus converting the structure into a refrigerator where milk and other dairy 
products may be kept in prime condition until marketed. 

Any one interested in details concerning the proper methods of building 
a structure of this kind, of specified dimensions, may obtain the necessary 
information from the Portland Cement Association, 111 West Washington 
Street, Chicago. 



CONVENIENT ESTIMATING TABLES AND EXAMPLES 

QUANTITIES OF PORTLAND CEMENT, SAND AND PEBBLES 
OR CRUSHED STONE FOR 100 SQUARE FEET OF 
CONCRETE 10 INCHES THICK, EQUAL 
TO 3.08 CUBIC YARDS 



PROPORTIONS 


QUANTITIES 


Sacks 


Cu. Ft. 


Cu. Ft. 


Sacks 


Cu. Yd. 


Cu. Yd. 


of 


of 


Pebbles 


of 


of 


Pebbles 


Cement 


Sand 


or Stone 


Cement 


Sand 


or Stone 




1 




60.2 


2.23 






iy 2 




47.7 


2.65 






2 




39.4 


2.92 






2V 2 




33.8 


3.13 






3 




29.5 


3.29 






1 


1 


41.7 


1.54 


1.54 




\Vi 


3 


23.4 


1.30 


2.60 




2 


3 


21.5 


1.59 


2.38 




2 


4 


18.5 


1.37 


2.74 




2H 


4 


17.2 


1.59 


2.54 




2^ 


5 


15.4 


1.43 


2.86 




3 


5 


14.2 


1.58 


2.64 



NOTE : These quantities can be safely used for estimating, ordering materials and, 
after the work is done, as a check to prove that the required quantity of cement has been 
used. Actual quantity of materials used in the concrete should not vary more than ten 
per cent above or below the quantities given in the table. 



MANURE PITS AND CISTERNS 33 

This table can readily be used for any concrete structures which can 
be measured in area and which are of uniform thickness over any con- 
siderable area such as walls, floors, walks, etc. 

The following examples illustrate the use of the table : 

EXAMPLE 1. Required the quantity of materials for a 12-inch 
thick basement wall, 6 feet 5 inches high above footing, for a house 25 feet 
by 40 feet outside dimensions. The footing 1 foot 6 inches wide and 6 
inches thick. Concrete proportioned 1 : 3 : 5. 

WALL: 

Length of wall 25 +25 +39 +39 = 128 ft. 
Height of wall 6 ft. 5 in, = 6£ = 6.417 ft. 
Area of wall =128 x6.417 = 821.4 sq. ft. 
Thickness of wall =12 in. 

Quantities of materials for wall concrete: 
Factor for multiplying units in 

821 4 12 
table =2JL2 X ^_ =8.214x1.2 =9.8568; 

Take 9.86 
Sacks of cement = 14.2 x9.86 =140.0 
Cu. yd. of sand = 1.58 x9.86 = 15.6 
Cu. yd. of pebbles or crushed stone =2.64 x9.86 =26.0 

FOOTING: 

Length of footing =25.5 +25.5 +37.5 +37.5 =126 ft 
Width of footing =1 ft. 6 in. =1« = 1.5 ft. 
Area of footing =126 xl.5 =189 ft. 
Thickness of footing =6 in. 

Quantities of materials for footing. 

Factor for multiplying units in the 

table =— j^ Xjj =1.89 x.6 =1.134 =1.13 

Sacks of cement =14.2 xl.13 =16.0 

Cu. yd. of sand =1.58 xl.13 =1.8 

Cu. yd. of pebbles or stone =2.64 xl.13 =3.0 

Total quantities of materials: 

Sacks of cement =140 +16 =156.0 

Cu. yd. of sand =15.6 +1.8 =17.4 or 17.5 

Cu. yd. pebbles =26.0 +3 =29.0 

EXAMPLE 2. Required the quantities for a concrete floor for a 
basement. Interior dimensions of the basement 23 feet by 38 feet. 
Floor 5 inches thick over all, with 4-inch base of concrete proportioned 
1 : 23^ : 5, and 1-inch wearing course composed of cement mortar pro- 
portioned 1:2. 



34 



CONCRETE TROUGHS, TANKS, HOG WALLOWS 



Area of floor =23 x38 =874 sq. ft. 

Factor for multiplying quantities in table for 



874 4 

base =77777 X — 

100 10 



8.74 x. 4 =3.5 



Quantities of materials for base concrete: 

Sacks of cement =15.4 x3.5 =54.0 

Cu. yd. of sand =1.43 x3.5 =5.0 

Cu. yd. of pebbles or stone =2.86 x3.5 =10.0 

Factor for multiplying quantities in table for 

wearing surface = — x — =8.74 x.l • =.9 
100 10 

Quantities of materials for wearing surface mortar : 

Sacks of cement =39.4 x.9 =35.5 

Cu. yd. of sand =2.92 x.9 =2.6 cu. yd. 

Total quantities of materials for floor : 

Sacks of cement =54.0 +35.4 =89.5 
Cu. yd. of sand =5.0 +2.6 =7.6 or 7.5 
Cu. yd. of pebbles or stone =10.0 



SURFACE AREA (IN SQUARE FEET) OF CONCRETE SLARS OR 

WALLS OF VARIOUS THICKNESSES AND PROPORTIONS, 

THAT CAN RE MADE WITH ONE SACK OF CEMENT 



Thickness 




CONCRETE MIXTURE 




of Slab 








or Wall 












in inches 


1:2:3 


1:2:4 


1 :2^:4 


1:2^:5 


1 :3 :5 


3 


15.52 


17.88 


19.42 


21.77 


23.2 


W2 


13.31 


15.33 


16.65 


18.67 


19.9 


4 


11.64 


13.41 


14.56 


16.33 


17.4 


41^ 


10.36 


11.93 


12.96 


14.53 


15.5 


5 


9.31 


10.73 


11.65 


13.06 


13.9 


5H 


8.46 


9.74 


10.58 


11.86 


12.6 


6 


. 7.76 


8.94 


9.71 


10.88 


11.6 


6M 


7.18 


8.27 


8.98 


10.07 


10.7 


7 


6.65 


7.66 


8.33 


9.33 


9.9 


8 


5.82 


6.70 


7.28 


8.16 


8.7 


10 


4.66 


5.36 


5.83 


6.53 


6.9 


12 


3.88 


4.47 


4.85 


5.44 


5.8 


14 


3.32 


3.83 


4.16 


4.66 


4.7 


16 


2.91 


3.35 


3.64 


4.08 


4.3 



Tennis Courts of Concrete 

Concrete Septic Tanks 

Concrete Fence Posts 

Small Concrete Garages 

Concrete Feeding Floors, Barnyard 
Pavements and Concrete Walks 

Farmer's Handbook on Concrete 
Construction 

Concrete Facts About Concrete Roads 

Facts Everyone Should Know About 
Concrete Roads 

Proportioning Concrete Mixtures and 
Mixing and Placing Concrete 

Concrete Foundations 



Are new publications which may interest 
you. If you would like any of these book- 
lets, write the Portland Cement Association, 
III West Washington Street, Chicago 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



020 187 550 A 

"Concrete for Sanitation" 

Concrete Troughs, Tanks 

Hog Wallows 
Manure Pits and Cisterns 

Are Profitable Investments 




They are Sanitary \ Permanent, Money Makers 



"Concrete for Permanence 



99 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




020 187 550 



